Build a Paver Patio: Leveling, Base and Laying, Step by Step

Building a paver patio comes down to three things: getting the ground to the right grade, building a compacted gravel base thick enough for New England frost, and laying the pavers inside edges that will not move. The pavers are the easy part. Almost every patio that heaves, sinks or grows weeds failed below the surface.

This guide walks through how a paver patio is built properly, from leveling the ground to filling the joints, plus the choice between brick, concrete pavers and natural stone. It comes from Gerrior Masonry & Landscape Construction Corp., a family-owned masonry and hardscape company in Woburn, MA, that designs and builds backyard patios.

Plan before you dig

• Size it for use. Lay out your table, chairs or grill on the lawn with room to pull chairs back and walk around them. A patio that is too small is the most common regret.
• Plan the pitch. A patio should fall about 1/4 inch per foot, away from the house. Never pitch it toward the foundation.
• Check the ground. Wet spots, ledge and heavy clay change how deep you dig and whether you need fabric or drainage.
• Call Dig Safe. Massachusetts requires at least 72 hours notice before digging, not counting weekends and holidays, and you pre-mark the area first (Dig Safe homeowner guide). Call 811.
• Raised patios. If the patio will sit above grade on a wall, plan the wall as its own structure. Ask your building department whether it needs a permit.

The best way to level ground for pavers

Leveling ground for pavers does not mean making the dirt flat and laying pavers on it. It means digging to a consistent depth below your finished grade, so the base you build is the same thickness everywhere.

1. Set your finished height. Drive stakes at the corners and run string lines at the finished patio height, pitched 1/4 inch per foot away from the house.
2. Dig down from the strings. Measure down from the string to the depth of the base, bedding and paver combined, and dig to that depth everywhere. Remove all topsoil, roots and soft material.
3. Cut high spots; do not fill low spots with dirt. If you dig a little too deep, fill with base gravel, not topsoil or loose fill. Loose soil settles.
4. Compact the subgrade with a plate compactor before any gravel goes in.

Can you level for pavers without digging?

No-dig methods, which set pavers on a thin layer of sand or a panel placed on top of the lawn, can work for a small, low-use spot such as a pad for a bench. For a real patio in Massachusetts they are a gamble. Topsoil holds water and freezes, so the surface moves every winter and settles unevenly in spring. If you need to keep digging to a minimum on a slope, a low wall with a raised, gravel-filled patio is the reliable alternative.

How to build a patio with pavers, step by step

1. Excavate. Dig to the depth of the base plus about an inch of bedding plus the paver thickness, and a little wider than the patio so the edge restraint sits on base.
2. Add fabric where needed. On clay or wet soil, lay geotextile fabric across the subgrade to keep soil out of the gravel.
3. Build the base. Place 3/4-inch crushed gravel in layers 2 to 3 inches thick, compacting each one. Unilock's guide calls for a 6 to 8 inch base under patios, deeper in clay (Unilock Basic Tech Guide). In Massachusetts, treat the low end of that range as the minimum and go deeper on clay and wet sites.
4. Screed the bedding. Spread about 1 inch of coarse sand or chip stone and screed it flat using pipes as guides. Do not walk on it after screeding.
5. Lay the pavers. Start at a straight edge or corner, usually against the house, and work outward, keeping joints straight with string lines. Kneel on the pavers you have laid, not the bedding.
6. Cut the edges. Use a wet or dustless saw (or a guillotine splitter for straight cuts) and keep cut pieces larger than half a paver where you can.
7. Install edge restraint along every open edge, spiked into the compacted base.
8. Compact and fill the joints. Sweep the surface, run the plate compactor with a protector pad, sweep joint sand in, and compact again. If you use polymeric sand, follow the maker's directions for sweeping, wetting and dry weather exactly.

Brick vs concrete pavers vs natural stone for a patio

Concrete pavers

The most common patio material: many colors, sizes and textures, consistent thickness that makes installation predictable, and easy to lift and relay. Large-format slabs give a clean, modern look; see 24x24 concrete pavers.

Brick

Clay brick has color that runs through the unit, so it does not fade, and it suits older homes. Concrete brick looks similar for less money, but its color can wear over time. For patios, use paving brick, not wall brick.

Natural stone

Bluestone, flagstone and granite look the most natural and hold up well, but vary in thickness and take more skill to set. Our post on bluestone patio installation covers natural stone in detail.

Brick patio installation: what is different

A brick patio is built on the same base as any paver patio. The differences are in the details:

• Cutting. Brick is dense and chips easily. Cut with a wet saw, and plan the pattern so cuts fall at the edges, not in the middle.
• Edges and curves. A soldier course of brick set on end around the outside frames the patio and hides edge cuts. On curves, the border turns with slightly tapered joints.
• Sand-set or mortared. Sand-set brick on a gravel base flexes with frost and is easy to repair. Mortared brick needs a concrete slab underneath, and the joints need repointing over time.

Keeping a paver patio in shape

Sweep regularly, top up joint sand when joints look low, pull weeds early, and clean stains promptly. If joint sand keeps washing out, look for a drainage or base problem; see paver joint sand failure. Our paver maintenance post covers cleaning and sealing.

Planning a fire pit on the patio? See choosing a backyard fire pit. Building around a pool? See our pool deck services.

When to hire a mason

A small, level patio on good soil is a reasonable DIY project. Hire a professional for large patios, sloped yards, raised patios on walls, wet or clay sites, and anything with steps or a fire pit. Gerrior Masonry is an authorized Unilock contractor; Beacon Hill Flagstone and Brussels Block are common patio choices, Unilock Umbriano is popular for pool patios, and we also install Belgard and Pavestone. See finished work on our patios and fire pits page, and for what drives the price, see our paver patio cost guide.

A Melrose customer wrote after we built his terrace: "I can not thank you and your team enough for an incredible Italian style terrace that you have built. It is truly a special “retreat” for me." Charles, Melrose, MA

Common questions

How deep do you dig for a paver patio?

The depth of the gravel base, plus about an inch of bedding, plus the paver thickness. Unilock's guide calls for a 6 to 8 inch base under patios, more in clay.

Can I put pavers directly on dirt?

No. Dirt holds water, freezes and settles. Pavers need a compacted gravel base and a thin bedding layer.

Do I need polymeric sand?

It is not required, but it resists washout and weeds better than plain sand when it is installed correctly.

Is a brick patio better than concrete pavers?

Neither is better in every case. Clay brick keeps its color and suits traditional homes; concrete pavers offer more styles and sizes. Both last when built on a proper base.

Ready for a patio built to last through Massachusetts winters? Gerrior Masonry is family-owned, fully insured, and our work is guaranteed. Call (781) 933-4157 or request a free estimate.